Shetland Islands · Scotland
Dury Sand Mastic
We cover Dury for traditional burnt sand mastic around sash and case windows and doors in stone and brick. Old material cut out, joints cleaned and sealed neatly and every job guaranteed for a year.
- Modern sealant on a period surround
- Cement or filler used on old window joints that has cracked
- Tired mastic found when preparing windows for paint
About our sand mastic in Dury
Traditional burnt sand mastic blends with stone and brick surrounds. It suits period and listed homes where a modern sealant bead would stand out. If you have a silicone bead on a sash window that spoils the look and failed mastic on an exposed elevation, we can help, on sash and case windows, tenement windows and stone surrounds alike.
Across smaller places in Scotland, homes range from stone and harled cottages to newer houses, many standing in the open. Exposed frames and sills take the full force of wind-driven rain, so the mastic there works hard.
We guarantee the work for a year. If there’s a problem with our work within the year, let us know and we’ll sort it.
- Where
- Dury (ZE2)
- Region
- Shetland Islands
- Cover
- 12 months on all our work
- Quote
- Quoted before any work starts
- info@mrmastic.co.uk
- Last updated
- 26 October 2026
What the job involves on each surface
Tenement and terrace windows
Tenements and terraces often have many sash windows with ageing mastic. We work on single windows or whole elevations.
Timber door frames
Doors face weather and wear, so their mastic can fail sooner. It’s renewed by hand.
Also in Dury
What sand mastic looks like in Dury
Dury is close to the coast, and homes near the sea take more wind-driven rain, with salt in the air closer to the shore. Both are hard on the mastic around older windows and doors, which can dry out and crack sooner where a building faces the weather. Sash and case windows are common in older Scottish homes, and the joint between the box frame and the stone or render is traditionally pointed with sand mastic.
In and around Dury, as anywhere, good sand mastic starts with a clean, dry, properly prepared joint.
Dury is in the Shetland Islands. For sand mastic in and around Dury, it’s easy to get a quote: please email us at info@mrmastic.co.uk. We cover the Shetland Islands from our Crawley base, Dury included. We cover 63 towns and villages across the Shetland Islands.
All of ZE2 is within our area for sand mastic. Dury sits on or near the B9075, which makes travel easy. Nearby, we also carry out sand mastic in Vidlin (4 miles north), Vassa (4 miles south), Voe (4 miles north-west), Clate (5 miles east) and Sandwick (5 miles east). Larger places within reach include Lerwick (12 miles south), Sound (12 miles south), Scalloway (13 miles south) and Brae (8 miles north-west). If you’re somewhere remote, a little more planning is needed, so let us know when you get in touch.
Near you in Dury
A little further out are The Cabin Museum (2.4 miles north). For a walk, there’s Quinni Loch and Hill of Neap.
Dury questions
Do you cover Dury for sand mastic?
Yes, Dury is within the area we cover. Our work covers the whole of Scotland. Just send an email to info@mrmastic.co.uk with a few details of the job, and we will send you a clear quote.
Do you cover smaller places like Dury?
Yes, Dury is covered. We work across all of Scotland, islands included, and smaller places are part of that. The journey is planned ahead, so it helps to know about access.
Are you ARBOMaster approved?
Yes. Mr Mastic is an ARBOMaster approved applicator.
Can I choose the sealant colour?
Most of the time, yes. We’ll tell you which colours the right product comes in and agree one before work begins.
Do you take out the old sealant first?
Yes, every time. New sealant will not bond properly to old, so any old material comes out before anything new goes in.
What exactly is sand mastic?
It’s the traditional filler for the joint round timber windows and doors. It’s made with sand and a linseed-oil-based binder.
Can I paint the new mastic?
Sand mastic is normally left unpainted, as guidance on traditional windows advises. Talk to us before any painting near it.
Can old silicone round a sash window be swapped for sand mastic?
Yes, it’s a common request. The old silicone has to come out completely so the mastic beds in well.
Why deal with it now?
Before painting the windows, it pays to renew the mastic. Painting over failed mastic does not seal it, and the new mastic is traditionally left unpainted. In a place like Dury, small leaks are easy to put off, but water behind a failed seal does the most damage when nobody’s watching.
Instead of a standard rate, we look at what your job involves: the amount of work, the old material and the access. You’ll know the price before we begin.
What you get with us
- Old sealant always removed completely
- Tidy, careful work
- ARBOMaster approved applicator
- Rated 4.9 stars on Google
Read how sealant jobs are priced and customer reviews.
When to call us in Dury
Shallow joints are a common cause. Mastic that’s too thin cracks and drops out so we make sure the new mastic is the right thickness.
Common reasons people contact us include:
- Silicone on a period window that looks wrong
- Cement or filler used on old window joints that has cracked
- Mastic that needs renewing before redecorating
- Mastic round period door frames that has failed
For jobs in and around Dury, choosing the right material for each joint is as important as a tidy finish.
Comparing quotes
- The length of the guarantee
- How long to leave it before use
- How hidden problems are handled
- Who turns up on the day
What affects the cost of sand mastic
Your quote is based on your job. We take into account:
- Any working-time requirements on site
- Mould in or behind the old joints
- Whether the work is at height
- The number and length of the joints
Doing several joints on one visit normally makes better use of the time than several visits, so it’s worth mentioning everything you’d like done. We’ll give you a clear quote for the lot.
What to tell us for a quote
A few details help us give you an accurate quote. When you get in contact, it helps to mention:
- The rough size of the job
- Any access issues, like height or stairs
- If it’s domestic, commercial or a hotel
- The address or postcode of the job
Want a quote for sand mastic? Please email us at info@mrmastic.co.uk with a few details. You will know what we plan to do, and what it will cost, before any work begins.
Aftercare tips
Good habits help new joints last longer. A few tips:
- Keep sills and gutters clear so water drains away
- Ask the planning authority about consent for listed or conservation-area homes
- Avoid patching sand mastic with silicone
- Look over the window mastic once a year
Make sure water drains away from the window surround. Constant wetting wears the mastic faster.
It’s best to renew mastic before painting the windows. Paint over cracked mastic only covers it up.
How it works
There’s no need to move everything out, only the area right around the joints. We protect the rest, and the work takes anything from a few hours to a full day, depending on how many windows in most cases. For a place like Dury, longer drives are planned in advance. Tell us about tracks, gates, a ferry crossing or anything unusual about getting there.
- First, we look at the surrounds with you and agree what needs doing.
- The loose and crumbling mastic is raked out and the joint cleaned.
- We pack any deep gaps so the mastic sits at the right depth.
- Sand mastic is mixed and applied by hand, then shaped to the joint.
- The finish is dressed so it sits neatly against the stone or brick.
Preparing for the visit
- Clear items away from the joints we are working on
- Keep pets and children clear of the area while we work
- Tell us about any water getting in
Ask for a quote
The more we know about the job, the more useful the quote. Tell us where the job is, what’s wrong and how much there is, and add photos by email if you can.
Advice
Should I try it myself first?
A careful DIYer can reseal a simple joint, like a short, easy-to-reach joint indoors. Where it goes wrong is sealing over the old bead, working on a wet joint or overloading the gap.
Overfilling a joint is a classic DIY mistake. A heavy bead looks messy and copes badly with movement, and the joint depth matters as much as the finish.